Thinking of Traveling to Alaska?(part Ii)

Given the wide variety of travel options, it’s hard to be precise. If you can be flexible, you can often find a return flight from Seattle to Anchorage for around $250. Although it’s closer, flying to Juneau will cost more, from $50-100 usually–US dollars of course. From Vancouver to Whitehorse, return; expect to pay at least $200, Canadian.

• Drivers will find gasoline prices moderate in Canada and low to moderate in Alaska, thanks to the oil pipeline.

• Restaurant prices run higher everywhere; budget about 20% more than you’d need in urban Canada or the U.S. Motel and hotel costs are similar to those down south; don’t be afraid to bargain during the off or shoulder season.

• Cruise fares are complex and bewildering, but if you’re prepared to do the homework and cost comparison required, you can obtain remarkable deals. It’s possible to snag an inside stateroom for a seven-day cruise between Vancouver and Seward, Alaska, for under $700 per person. This includes stateroom and meals, but no alcohol or shore excursions. Still, it’s a deal that’s hard to beat. For a romantic getaway, consider traveling in the early shoulder season and apply the savings to upgrading to an outside stateroom with a veranda.

Norm:

If you had to choose 6 unequalled venues in Alaska and the Yukon Territory for a romantic getaway, honeymoon or wedding destination, which would you choose and why?

I noticed that you had mentioned to me there is some great hot springs just south of the Yukon border on the Alaska Highway and in central Alaska. Perhaps, you would like to elaborate as how this venue qualifies as a unique romantic destination?

Nancy:

Only 6? That’s not easy; I’ll have to commune with my inner travel agent! OK, here goes.

For more information, my book Going Places: Alaska and the Yukon for Families explores each of these destinations in greater detail. Government Web sites are another good resource.

• Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, Alaska

It’s accessible (Alaska Airlines offers service to Gustavus, just outside the park) and offers a taste of just about everything the north has to offer. Although Gustavus has excellent B&Bs, for honeymooners I recommend staying at Glacier Bay Lodge, the only accommodation inside the park, which offers rustic comfort (get a room with a view of Bartlett Cove), fine dining, and activities like kayaking, fishing, biking, guided boat tours of Glacier Bay, and free guided hikes with park rangers. Go flightseeing high above the bay to get a look at the enormous icefields that generate the glaciers. If time allows, extend your trip to Juneau (a gorgeous, 3-hour ferry trip south) to visit Mendenhall Glacier, tour superb museums, shop for Tlingit art and take a boat tour to Tracy Arm-Ford’s Terror Wilderness. The lodge is open and tours are offered between late May and early September.

• Haines Junction, YT

Come again? You may never have heard of it, but this tiny town perched at the edge of Canada’s spectacular Kluane National Park has a lot to offer–location, location, location, as they say in real estate. It’s highway-accessible from Skagway (4.5 hours), Haines (3 hours) and Whitehorse (1.5 hours). The national park’s main visitor centre is in town along with a superb small European-style inn–the Raven–with 12 spacious rooms and one of Canada’s top restaurants. Also in town are several decent motels and an excellent bakery and cafe. From here, you can access excellent hiking trails for all levels of fitness, and explore the largest protected wilderness in the world. You will need a vehicle. If you don’t have one with you, rentals are available in Haines, Skagway and Whitehorse. Or book a stay with one of the area’s full-service resorts and let them take you exploring. NOTE TO CANADIANS: For reasons no one seems able to explain, Canadians are not permitted to bring a vehicle into Canada, which they have rented in the US. Luckily, Whitehorse has many rental outlets.

• Homer, Alaska

On the southwest of the Kenai Peninsula, Homer is the better part of a day’s drive from Anchorage. It’s tiny (about 4,000 residents) but with city-sized amenities–such as one of Alaska’s best bookstores, a first-rate museum, and exceptional arts and crafts galleries. Homer Spit, which extends 4.4 miles into scenic Kachemak Bay, is studded with cafes and shops. At the far end, with Homer’s best view, is Land’s End Resort, a great destination for honeymooners. Book a suite or rent a luxurious condo. The restaurant is first rate. Soak in the hot tub at the water’s edge and watch the sea otters float by.

• Denali National Park & Preserve, Alaska

First the bad news: Unless you are lucky enough to win the road lottery that allows you to drive deep into the park in mid September, you will have plenty of crowds to contend with. The good news is that it’s worth it. Not only is this closest you can easily get to Mount McKinley, wildlife viewing and spectacular scenery are among the best in Alaska, and accommodation choices are superb and varied. At the park entrance you can find many choices at all price ranges, some with views to die for. To get away from the crowds and closer to the natural world of Denali, consider a stay deep inside the park at the beautiful, rustic Kantishna Roadhouse or Denali Backcountry Lodge.

• Alyeska Resort, Girdwood, Alaska

This Japanese-owned hotel offers sheer, unabashed luxury. Plus it’s 40 miles from Anchorage and a day trip from Portage Glacier and the Kenai Peninsula. In winter come for skiing, tubing and snowboarding; in summer, for golf, hiking and wildlife. Any time of year, enjoy the first-class amenities that include a superb health club and pool and a tram up to a mountaintop restaurant This is a popular spot for weddings, well equipped to handle even lavish affairs. The high season here is winter; summer stays can be quite moderately priced. For a cheaper romantic getaway,

• Muncho Lake, BC

OK, it’s not in the Yukon, but so close! This gorgeous turquoise lake lies in the northern Rocky Mountains–a little-known but enchanted region where caribou and stone sheep wander the highways, fishing is excellent, and crowds are nonexistent. The Northern Rockies Lodge offers fine accommodation and European dining and arrange fishing and other excursions. Hiking and fishing are great here, but the number-one romantic attraction is nearby Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park, 34 miles up the Alaska Highway. A boardwalk trail leads from the park’s parking lot to two large hot springs pools. TIP: A short walk from the first, most popular pool is the second hotter and deeper pool that’s more secluded and less visited, a great destination on a drizzly day. Stopping at the springs is a tradition for just about everyone who drives the Alaska Highway. If you don’t want to bother with a vehicle, the lodge (it’s owned by bush pilots) will fly you here from the US or Canada.

Norm:

You have also mentioned to me that Asian tourists in recent years have been flocking north in winter on aurora-viewing packages. Could you elaborate as to what these entail and what can someone expect to see?

Nancy:

These are great fun and growing in popularity every year. For some years, Chena Hot Springs Resort, a rustic but delightful spot a few hours drive from Fairbanks, Alaska, has been offering such packages.

The resort has always been a favorite getaway for Alaskans for winter sports like cross-country skiing and snowmobiling. The resort has several indoor hot pools, but the favourite is its hot-springs lake outdoors. Bask in the warm waters, surrounded by snow and subzero temperatures, while you gaze up at the aurora overhead.

Winter packages include rides on a “snow catch” to view the aurora. The “aurorarium,” nicely heated, offers a comfortable vantage point to watch the light show. Yukon and Alaska tour companies now offer aurora-viewing tour packages, usually three or four nights.

Norm:

In recent years cruises to Alaska have become very popular. Could you tell our readers why and do you have any preferences as to which cruise to take?

Nancy:

• The answer is simple. Some of Alaska’s most spectacular attractions are to be found along the Inside Passage. Yet, because they are separated by water and most are inaccessible by road, the only way to reach them is by plane or boat.

• Another reason: cruise travel is a remarkably flexible way to plan a vacation. No matter your age or fitness level–honeymoon couples, large wedding or family-reunion parties, toddlers, college students, and retirees–anyone can enjoy a cruise. There is onboard entertainment (usually casino gambling, art auctions, Vegas-style shows, and gala dining), programs for kids, shore excursions to sample the principal attractions of major ports of call and whales, bald eagles and other wildlife to view, all from the comfort of the ship.

• Cruises permit access to a beautiful but remote and rugged part of the world in sheer luxury. Visiting Alaska, I often encounter visitors who are making their third or fourth trip, but whose first was by cruise ship. Considering the bargains available, it’s also one of the most cost-effective ways to visit the north.

• For those unfamiliar with Alaska, I recommend taking a one-way cruise from Vancouver, BC, that includes a visit to lovely Sitka (round trip cruises rarely stop at Sitka). Finishing at Skagway, Whittier, or Seward, visitors can make their way to Anchorage for a couple of days and even tack on a short 2-3 day train trip to Denali before flying out of Anchorage back to Vancouver or the point of origin. TIP: check out one-way airfares offered by the cruise lines. They are often cheaper than anything you can arrange on your own.

• Amenities among the biggest cruise lines tend to be similar. For a romantic getaway on a major line, I like Royal Caribbean, Radisson or Silver Sea. If you can do without a pool and gambling, try one of the smaller lines like Cruise West or, Lindblad (if your wallet can handle the strain).

NORM:

How far in advance should a couple prepare themselves for their honeymoon, romantic getaway or wedding in Alaska and the Yukon Territory?

Nancy:

• We’re trending out of my area of expertise here, but let’s take a wedding first. If you need lodging for 20 or 30 people, you’ll find a wide range of options, many of which can be booked with no more than 6 month to a year’s notice–the amount of advance planning most weddings require. If, however, your guest list includes 80 or more, you’ll find fewer suitable destinations and those you do find will need to be booked as soon as possible. A popular choice for weddings, such as the Alyeska Resort, can be booked far in advance.

• For a honeymoon, if you want the top suite at the Captain Cook in Anchorage, a remote but popular resort such as the Kantishna Roadhouse in Denali or a first-class suite on a popular cruise ship, the sooner you book the better. Otherwise, six months should be adequate.

• And for a romantic getaway, surprisingly you can often make spur of the moment plans–especially if you’re willing to travel in May or September–and find topnotch options. TIP: if you’re looking for a great place to roost during the summer high season, try towns along the Inside Passage. Because most tourists visit via cruise ship or ferry and don’t spend the night, you can often find excellent accommodation in Ketchikan (try the WestCoast Cape Fox Lodge with a spectacular view of Tongass Narrows), lovely Sitka (the Westmark Sitka is a good bet) or Haines (the historic Hotel Halsingland has several antique-studded suites). But in Juneau, the state capital, if the legislature runs a summer session the top hotels–the Goldbelt and the Baranof–are likely to be booked solid.

NORM:

What resources are available on the Internet pertaining to weddings and honeymoon vacations in?

Nancy:

Again, this is not my area of expertise. The ALYESKARESORT.COM has a wedding and reception planning page on its website. Anchorage has several wedding planners, but I’m not aware of any in Whitehorse. However, a nice thing about the north is the informality and ease of booking and planning a trip. And maybe it’s the long cold winters, but even tiny communities in the Yukon and Alaska usually have up-to-date web sites and are more than happy to help you find what you’re looking for.

NORM:

Is there anything else you would want our readers to know about Alaska and the Yukon Territory?

Nancy:

Just one more tip–for adventurous-minded couples with more taste (and wanderlust) than money, consider touring the Inside Passage via the Alaska ferry.

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